🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.